Tintern Quarry

 

 

Tintern is pretty big, about 1000ft across and 500ft deep. The road goes around in a rough spiral and there is climbing (of varying quality) on every wall on the way down to the bottom.

"Deja Vu" (Pics below) E2 6a and then retro-bolted. The Guidebook says "Either take the softer option and use the holds out left (6b+) or make a very hard move up the centre". Given I did the centre I therefore have no idea what grade. On the basis that it felt a lot harder than all of the 6c's I've done, and a touch harder than my only 6c+ (actually it felt about as bad, but whilst the 6c+ was one move to good holds, this was three or four moves, all equally tenuous, before salvation arrived)....Hence I'd guess 6c+/7a. In fairness, Pip (a German climber who was shedloads better than me) on-sighted it with apparently no effort and pronounced it 7a. Thanks to Kirsty for the pictures!

Above: Me praying to the god of awful holds for my right hand to stay put...(mid-crux)

Right, that's the easy bit over....Starting the crux sequence..Oh god this is tenuous..Thank god, I've got the sidepull. This might actually happen.Hanging off a sidepull and a dubious pinch.

Yehaw, good holds....well, in comparison to the ones before..It's all over now, just clip the bolt and don't fall off!!

 

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